Manchester Part 2 – Do I really Look 50?

This posting was also written on-location some time ago.

MANCHESTER
PART 2

20130628-191003.jpg

I find myself looking in the mirror a lot today. As I already wrote, Mancunians tend to be charming. But last night when I was having dinner I met someone visiting from Halifax, England, who was also dining alone. He asked my age. “Thirty Nine.” “Oh, I thought you looked Fifty. I think it’s because of your beard. Why do you have a beard?” Charming. I don’t quite believe him, but before I dyed my white hair last summer people did wonder whether there was one or two generations between me and my 15 year-old niece. “Well, I guess it’s good that I dye my hair then, ” I respond. “Why, what colour would it be?” Oh brother. “Purple.” Yes, I looked so very old with my naturally purple hair.

I think that 39 year-olds can grow beards just as easily as 50 year-olds, it’s not like a kid aged 16 looking 25 because of having a lot of facial growth. And I don’t let mine grow to a big poofy religious-looking mess, I trim it often and I cleanly shave up to my jaw line. I even dye my beard, which would be 2/3 white. It’s not a big deal, it’s like a shampoo that stays on for 5 minutes before rinsing out. I think I’ll keep this look for a year. Perhaps I’ll shave my beard in December. I grew it in Manhattan last November. As for having white hair again? I will turn 40 in October and I had been saying that having white hair before age 40 seemed too young. I’d like to be more fit before I let it go natural again though. I wouldn’t mind being a “silver fox” like Anderson Cooper but I don’t fancy being frumpy with white hair, no mater how distinguished it may be.

I bet I would have quite a different travel experience if people assumed me to be older. My apparent age confuses people. Too old to be a backpacker, too young to be retired. Some people don’t like that. Especially travelling alone as I am, what must be wrong with me? It does make some people uncomfortable, I don’t fit expectations so they don’t trust me. What is he up-to? Where is his family? How insensible must he be to pick-up and travel in the very middle of his life during the time when he should be paying-off a house and planning for future retirement. There is something suspicious there. I don’t like it.

People always assumed my Dad to be older than he was from his white hair and from his position in business. People see the boss as being older. And someone with mature finances seems older yet again. When Dad turned 50 his office was at an intersection called Rothesay Corner. It was the perfect place for a sign where everyone would see it, so that’s what his office staff did, they rented one of those big light-up commercial signs. Except someone had assumed his milestone was of turning 60. The entire community was misinformed when the bright sign displayed, “Happy 60th Birthday Ken Elliott!” I hope that doesn’t happen to me! More and more I see myself and notice how much I look like my father. Thank goodness he’s a good looking guy!

I celebrated my own 39th birthday twice. The opposite of what most people do though, I celebrated my 39th a year early. One year off isn’t too bad, except that it was my own mistake! My Mother had been amazed, how had she lost a year? “You’re not turning 39,” she emailed, “you’re turning 38!” Of course she was right. Birthday math confused the accounting teacher. Goodness heavens.

20130628-193426.jpg
Some views around the architecturally-rich city of Manchester where lots of old blends beautifully with lots of new.
20130628-193607.jpg20130628-193722.jpg20130628-193802.jpg20130628-193820.jpg
Chinatown.
20130628-193926.jpg20130628-193945.jpg20130628-194006.jpg20130628-194045.jpg20130628-194109.jpg

_______________________

The Millstone pub has become my place to return to every day whilst in Manchester. Usually my “container” becomes a coffee shop. On my second evening in the pub people are taking turns singing karaoke. I work on my Haworth posting, the tedious process of downloading photo-by-photo. Unlike dropbox, where you can check a whole bunch of photos and click to download, using WordPress I have to separately add each photo – open the directory – scan down to the next one I want – wait for it to download – label it right then because in the editing function I cannot see which photo it is, I just see three lines of code – and again – going from start for each photo. I’ve only used the iPad app for this and using it is tiresome. I will try it on a laptop when I’m home and if it is much better I may have to break-down and travel with one of those rather than the very portable iPad.

Downloading a one minute video showing the 360 degree view of glorious countryside between Manchester and Haworth takes at least 5 minutes during which time I engage in conversation with neighbours. A nice woman from Leicestershire is visiting her Mancunian friend and they are happy to make acquaintance and chat throughout the evening. A hyper-friendly Mancunian around 55 or so is very enthusiastic that I should love Manchester. I’m going to call him Art, but I was unable to catch his name even when I asked him to repeat it twice. I’m drinking Guinness and for some reason Art assumes that I only drink Guinness. In fact, I have no loyalties to alcohol whatsoever. I had asked at the bar if they had anything from Manchester, they didn’t. I was familiar with everything that they had on tap and not having had dinner, I figured that Guinness would be a good choice. Perhaps people here are loyal to a drink and have their regular choice, but I choose something different nearly every time I order.

I am explained to about 9 separate times that Guinness is 1/3 food and that bitter is only about 1/4 food. Each time Art shows me with his finger on my glass what that proportion would be. He is adamant that I try some bitter and he doesn’t hear that I happily drink all the various drinks, bitter is not something new for me to try. Nonetheless he is pleased when I do have a bitter, as if I have just made some cultural leap. They have very common brands here, ones I would commonly see on tap in Canada. “Oh but they’re different.” Well perhaps not to a chemist and not to me, perhaps to a beer taster but I’m just an average Joe beer drinker. I enjoy the different tastes but I have no taste-memory to compare a Fosters pulled in Canada to a Fosters pulled in England or the like. It may be a bit different but since I can’t tell – why would I care.

I can’t tell if the super-friendly, very repetitive Art is drunk or mentally challenged. I think he might actually be both. The music is too loud and I can take no more by about 9PM again. He forces me to promise that I will meet him tomorrow here. I expect I will want to finish my Manchester stay here anyway, but I try not to promise in case other plans come up. He is relentless and pries until I finally agree, yes, I will be here tomorrow at 7. Really, I just need him to shut-up about it.

The next afternoon I am torn because there is a Beethoven concert at 7:30 on the other side of the city and he has bullied me into agreeing to meet at 7. “The people of Manchester, we will welcome you as one of our own and treat you like a king until you do us wrong. You know wha’ I mean? As long as you don’ do us wrong, we’ll welcome you like ya’s one of us.” This was another important piece of information that he felt compelled to share with me again and again. And again. I suppose standing-him-up when he basically forced me into agreement to meet could be construed as doing him wrong. It was interesting, but draining after a time, sitting with him last night. I hope we can meet others tonight to lesson the intimacy, I don’t want to have to entertain him by myself. I’d prefer to meet some other people at the pub without feeling chained to him. I wonder from how far he comes, I suspect he comes in from a more affordable district that is less central.

My last day in Manchester is another rainy one so this becomes another city that I don’t use my bicycle. I enjoy walking about the city, taking photos, and stopping here and there.

The central city of Manchester is a beautiful combination of the new and the old. It is a delight for my eyes as I wander about admiring the contrasts which are deeper than what is possible to exist in North America.

I do encounter too many people with clipboards interrupting passers-by in the main shopping zone as I did in Leeds. I feel like there should be a bylaw prohibiting that, it is nothing but a nuisance to be approached and stopped on the street for something which is probably not of interest. We get barraged by advertising and phone calls and messages begging for our attention too much already. Now to get our attention we are physically stopped on the street. How far will this actually go? Then we’ll get good at ignoring the people blocking our way so they’ll build actual barricades and only permit our continuation after we have received some unwanted message, conducted a survey, and listened to a plea for funds? I really do feel that this public canvasing needs to be squelched. It’s terrible for tourism too, although I don’t think Leeds or Manchester has much of that.

I absolutely hate it. I come upon a gaggle of them at an entry to the enormous shopping complex and decide to turn around rather than walk through being intruded upon. Because it’s a rainy day they’ve all concentrated under a pedestrian bridge attaching shopping to shopping. I’m not good with this kind of intrusion, my nature is too sensitive. I don’t like shrugging people off, I don’t like ignoring people and I don’t like dismissing them, but I also do not want to engage with them so this is a lose-lose situation.

Sitting at a sidewalk cafe in the Northern Quarter I am approached a few times asked for money or cigarettes. I don’t smoke anymore, and I really hate being approached on a patio for money so I never give in that case, I do not want to encourage that harassment. It causes me not to enjoy my lunch because I feel like I am eating when others are hungry. Again and again I find that giving on the street backfires on me anyway. Usually it’s fine, but sometimes you give and they decide that you can give them more and it all goes wrong. If I never returned to India it would be because of the unrelenting begging. But I am a glutton for the intensity of experience there so I’ll be back, but the constant pleading from beggars and harassment from taxi drivers and shop keepers does ruin a lot of days.

I buy a Big Issue and pay extra for it on Deans Gate and I give a pound coin to someone who is sitting on the sidewalk quietly asking for money. Just a pound because two pounds often encourages their want for more. It stands out as being different and they suddenly see extra potential. I drop a 2-pound coin on a guitar bag with some silver coins in-front of a busker, he’s a really good singer and buskers don’t tend to jump-up and suddenly ask if I can pay for their hotel room tonight or ask for a bus pass like in Leeds a few days ago. I notice the same man with a plastic recorder in several different places over two days. A young Indian man wearing a light-silver suit must be job hunting all throughout the city because I encounter him in three completely different areas. He stood out the first time in front of the Town Hall because his suit reminded me of one I had in Junior High School, when I was 14. The second time I greeted him, he recognised me too. Few people wear hats and most guys don’t have beards. The third time was when I realised he must not be working but looking for work. That is a hard place to be.

I learn that the first ever computer was built in Manchester and was called “the baby” even though it was very large. Manchester has a population of around 400 thousand but Greater Manchester has around 2.5 million so many people do probably live in high density housing such as what I first witnessed on my way into the city. The city exploded during the industrial revolution, increasing in population 5-fold during the 1800s. As I mentioned previously, Manchester was built on the textile industry and other synergistic enterprises. But the wealth was mostly kept in the hands of the few while the masses lived in very rough urban slums.

It’s 6:30 on my last evening in Manchester and I am dreading meeting up with Art. I want to upload this posting before I go to Liverpool tomorrow and the pub is too crowded for my comfort, in fact there were no seats left whatsoever and the volume was already too loud for me when I passed-through at 5PM. This is Friday, even though most of the patrons are clearly beyond working-age, I guess they still see the weekend as a time to let loose. I didn’t want to promise meeting, he could see that. He hounded and hounded until I agreed. I am not going to feel bound to honour that promise, made to make him leave me alone about it. I just hope I don’t bump into him trying to go for dinner, the rear exit for these rooms shares the hallway with the mens bathroom. I would go in to tell him that I’m not staying, but that would be pointless. He has already demonstrated that he manipulates to get what he wants. A shame we met. The other couple were so lovely as were the other people I met the first evening.

20130628-194246.jpg
Manchester Cathedral.20130628-194404.jpg
Manchester’s very impressive Gothic Town Hall.
20130628-194501.jpg
Close-ups of the Town hall.
20130628-194542.jpg20130628-194559.jpg
The Town Hall is open to the public although today only a small part of the main floor was available to appreciate.
20130628-194712.jpg20130628-194731.jpg20130628-194755.jpg
Some more views around Manchester.
20130628-194832.jpg20130628-194902.jpg20130628-194915.jpg20130628-194942.jpg20130628-195130.jpg20130628-195154.jpg20130628-195212.jpg20130628-195239.jpg20130628-195255.jpg20130628-195311.jpg20130628-195325.jpg20130628-195345.jpg20130628-195359.jpg20130628-195415.jpg20130628-195428.jpg20130628-195440.jpg20130628-195501.jpg20130628-195528.jpg20130628-195545.jpg20130628-195600.jpg20130628-195613.jpg<a

Click on the video below to experience some of the pub entertainment at the Millstone in Manchester.

The video below showcases another singer at the pub where I spent two evenings and above which I had a room.

Too late to attend the symphony. That's okay. It's great to meet people but it doesn't always work out well. You can see some of my challenges as an sensitive but outgoing introvert in today's posting. I'm not shy, but I don't recharge spending time in noisy, busy places or even in social situations. I enjoy social situations in moderation but some interactions can prove to be too draining for me. When I pass by beggars, whether I choose to give or not, it affects me. I am not the extraverted, exciting type that people assume me to be based on what I do. Visiting the pub in Manchester has been interesting because of it having such a different atmosphere than what I'm used to, but in the end my favourite time in Manchester was in the amazing John Rylands Library where I had a quiet chat with a curator about the history of the building and the family and then enjoyed some hours writing in beautiful surrounds.

20130628-200609.jpg

Manchester Part One – Staying in a Pub, Writing in England’s Finest Library & Remembering

This is really a double-posting that may take the time of two to read. This was mostly written in Manchester at the John Ryland’s Library. I’ll probably re-do the writing in the future to make it more interesting to read. If you’re from Winnipeg, sorry that I didn’t like your city. But I really didn’t and that’s the truth.

MANCHESTER
PART 1

I like to write my first impressions to see how they might change during my stay or to see how my visit may have been impacted by the first events that happened in a location. Before they are coloured by further observation, it’s good to record them.

Driving from the direction of Haworth, north east of Manchester, what immediately comes to mind is the British tv series, “Shameless”. Low-end housing, lots of high-density rows and buildings of no architectural value. This isn’t specific to Manchester, most cities have their undesirable areas. I know my own Toronto does, and I love Toronto. As I continue on, my Sat Nav guides me in to the Northern Quarter where my pub accommodation is on Thomas Street. I like the location, very central. I temporarily park my car in pay and display and go to check-in.

The Millstone pub has some good life going on. Mostly pensioners and a few after-work tradespeople, I am perhaps the youngest person here (I’m 39.) I am pointed to a back room where an Eastern European girl checks-me-in alongside an internet radio station that is currently live, Bob and Bev’s Rockabilly Radio Show or something. They hear my accent and excitedly ask if I will do a station identity for them. “Hi this is Darren from Toronto, Canada and you are listening to . . . . .” They were so surprised that I was able to play-up the accent and do it with some drama that the three of them clapped. It was cute.

After parking the car in a garage I stop in the pub to use the WIFI and perhaps meet some locals. I don’t look like a local here. An outsider for sure. The middle-aged barmaid does her best to ignore me until I finally yell to her my order. I’ve stopped taking this personally, I have found over the weeks that when I make servers uncomfortable they seem to hope that if they ignore me maybe I’ll just go away. And they have been right sometimes, I have left places after accepting the unwelcome. But not today. The barmaid may not welcome my custom, but otherwise the locals here seem cheery and warm. I take my pint to an empty table were I am befriended by a nearby man in his late 60s who is chatting-up a woman who is also in hers. I overhear, “well, after my husband passed away. . . ” Another man and woman join me, sitting at very close proximity to share my table, and soon after the table has others join across and we’re full.

I had been working on my Haworth posting but I stop when I become engaged in conversations. I go for another pint and experience the same as before, I need to be rude to get served because she has served beside me and behind me before I finally need to bark out that, “I’ll have a pint of Guinness please.” This I am forced to do in an interruptive way as she goes from person to person skipping me over until she has served several people that were behind me in the queue. This isn’t the norm, to other’s she asks, “Wha’ wi’ ya ‘ave loov?” and I’m the invisible man. Back at my table the volume has gone up another notch. People are taking turns singing with the music man, a guy with an electric accordion and a synthesiser. So far only gentlemen have gotten-up to claim the microphone. They’ve rehearsed too, and dressed in their Sunday best for their performances. I notice now that I can predict who is planning to sing because only a few guys are wearing full suits and three of them so far have serenaded the crowd. It’s getting harder to understand people over the noise, conversations are moving towards brief comments now because of this. After this pint is finished I head out in search of dinner.

Apart from the barmaid, the people in the pub were really friendly. Mostly between 50 and 75 years of age, some have dressed-up to have their turn at singing as I mentioned, others are more casual. The women are more made-up than their age group would be in Canada, with their make-up and hair done just so. It is apparent that they have spent a great deal of time with curlers and face masks and choosing co-ordinates, no one has just thrown something on and left the house. Even the gentlemen take extra care in their hygiene and appearance; freshly-shaven, clean-cut, and well-pressed clothes. I feel like I’m in a tv or film set. Not that it’s glamorous, just that I’ve not seen this live, only on telly. It just doesn’t quite feel real.

I really like Manchester.

20130628-170227.jpg
I stayed above the Millstone Pub on Thomas Street in the Northern Quarter of Manchester. The pub attracts a mature crowd of very warm, friendly, welcoming Mancunians. Patrons enjoyed taking turns at the microphone all three nights I visited.

20130628-170446.jpg
Some of the gentlemen dressed-up ready for their mini performances. The women put lots of attention to their appearance, hair, make-up and clothing choices seemed very put-together. I felt like I was sitting in a scene from television. Not that it was glamorous, it wasn’t, but it was such a different feeling of culture for me.

20130628-170716.jpg
My basic room was clean and had an ensuite with shower. My first pub stay, it was definitely an experience to repeat. (Noisy, yes. But I carry earplugs all the time and am used to using them because that is very often a problem for me anyway.)

20130628-170945.jpg
There was lots of colourful street-art in the Northern Quarter, an area known for independent shops and cafes.

20130628-171211.jpg

20130628-171233.jpg
Some views around Manchester during my first evening.

20130628-171323.jpg

20130628-171337.jpg

20130628-171352.jpg

20130628-171408.jpg

20130628-171424.jpg

20130628-171532.jpg

20130628-171735.jpg

20130628-171823.jpg

20130628-171850.jpg
As in Leeds there were quite a few disenfranchised youth who approached me for “spare change” but they seemed less aggressive here. Okay, maybe “youth” is not the right word, “people-of-all-ages”.

20130628-172050.jpg

20130628-172109.jpg

20130628-172122.jpg

_______________________

The next day I make my way past a mob of people, teachers on strike. They are entirely blocking the tourist information centre which I miss for them having blocked the signage. “They’re protesting pay cuts with the new government.” I am told. Teaching is a hard job and from my experience non-teachers rarely give teachers the credit they deserve.

People often bemoan teacher’s summer breaks, but when you teach you have to be “on” for your entire work day. You can’t have a tired day or a slow day. You can’t let yourself be feeling weak or vulnerable. If you haven’t slept, if you were up all night with your own sick child, if your marriage is falling apart, if your own Mother just died, you can’t sit at your desk and mope while you work at 70% your usual productivity. You still need to be completely on. The moment you lose your energy, you lose your students attention and it all goes to pot. If teachers didn’t have a number of weeks away from teaching each summer, they would certainly burn out and we would not have teachers. Or rather, we wouldn’t have any good teachers, the few who don’t care anyway would be just fine. And anyway, teachers are actually paid for their teaching days and their salaries are in-effect just spread-out evenly throughout the year.

So I support the teachers standing-up for what they deserve, which is remuneration that shows them a bit of respect. “We think that you are unimportant enough to lower your already somewhat-low wages.” No way, teachers are underpaid as it is in most countries including Great Britain.

I wonder if I will ever teach again. I continue to renew my Ontario Teachers License every year just-in-case but it is hard to imagine. There aren’t any jobs open now anyway, nor were there any when I graduated with my BED. Being a supply teacher was horrible and thankless, apart from the ESL department of Gordon Bell in Winnipeg where I was welcomed often enough to feel some purpose. The head of the department who has since retired, Beth McFee, had taken me under her wing when I newly arrived to Winnipeg and did my final practicum under her.

Apart from my days in the ESL department where I knew the students and other teachers, I mostly had days of power struggles, of teenagers trying to push the boundaries and seeing how far they could get with their temporary baby-sitter. Because I cared too much it was a bit soul-destroying. I remember one day putting myself between two guys who were having a fist-fight. They were probably 13/14, not that big, so I merely pushed myself between them to stop the fight which was very much out of hand. “You touched me! He touched me! You’re going to get in trouble!” one of them yelled and was right. I hadn’t touched anyone with a hand, but I had pushed my way in. I was warned never to touch a student in any way, not even on the shoulder. In the protection of children things have actually moved too far.

When it came to allocating punishment too, in many provinces teachers have become completely powerless. I could assign someone detention, but the school could not detain anyone so if a student didn’t go there was nothing a school could actually do. The students knew this in Winnipeg, that I had no actual authority to penalise them in any way. I could send someone to the office for a “talking to” but the office didn’t like that, it just reflected badly on me, it indicated that I couldn’t control the class.

The worst schools for me in Winnipeg were in the better neighbourhoods. The kids would talk-down to teachers because they knew that their Mom and Dad made more money than teachers did. I knew this too but I respected my teachers because my parents taught me that teachers deserved my respect. Maybe this happened more to substitute teachers when I was teaching in Winnipeg but I’d also overhear their conversations making-fun of teacher’s cars and generally expressing disrespect when visiting schools such as River Heights. But then many teachers in Winnipeg did tend to take no pride in their appearance whatsoever, many did not look like they were dressed for work and certainly didn’t dress professionally, preferring comfort over looking like someone who would command authority. Someone working at a bank would make less money but look a lot more professional and therefore possibly command more respect. Jeans, a worn T-shirt, and running shoes was probably the most common outfit for male teachers. Sometimes even sweat pants. I don’t care if you’re coaching soccer at noon, at the moment you are teaching math and that just looks terrible. You’re choice, but the kids do notice.

I’m not saying that people should judge each other by their clothes, I am just pointing-out that they do. At OISE/U of T I was taught to wear a tie everyday and I did, sometimes being the only one in an entire Winnipeg school to do so. The office would generally first assume me to be a parent when I presented myself, “No, I’m here for Miss.Warner today.” I continued to wear a tie because it was easier, the students treated me with more respect when I looked more respectful. And I didn’t go for that first-name ridiculousness. Our children don’t need to learn further that they are equals with their elders, they are not and they actually need to learn some respect which is incredibly lacking. It’s not right for kids to talk to elders without any respect, but it is becoming common and is even sometimes promoted in our school system. Some classes wouldn’t like it, so used to calling their teacher, “Jeff” that they’d bug me for my first name. “It’s Mister,” I replied over and over, “Mister Elliott. Or my nickname is Teacher.” I wasn’t their friend, I was their friendly teacher. There is a difference. If they are my equals then I am also not in charge. Guess how well that works.

My biggest gripe with teachers in Winnipeg wasn’t the way they presented themselves but that many had poverty mentalities. Teachers would consider themselves poor in a city where they were actually very comfortable. Many teachers would have a home and a cottage, which is very far from being poor. Try that in Toronto where you have a $400k mortgage or $2100 rent for your 2-bedroom condo and as a teacher only make about 20% more. Teachers of previous generations may have afforded a cottage, but not today. Winnipeg teachers were not poor but many thought they were so I suppose the kids weren’t really to blame when they picked-up on that. I got tired of hearing about their poverty too, and I was making much less than they were. The older teachers especially were sitting very pretty financially with well-appreciated homes, cottages, and great pensions in a city with a low cost of living. But many still thought they were poor, or at least they talked about it. “Look at these pictures of my new boat!” “Oh, I thought you said you were poor. Poor people don’t have new boats – in addition to their cars.”

During my eight years there I liked Winnipeg less and less until I had to abandon my life there because I could not stay another minute. I even felt guilty that I was able to escape when my ex-partner wasn’t, as if it were a refugee camp or a war-torn country. Some people really love Winnipeg and may be offended that it became my least-favourite city in Canada. But honestly, I would never use the words “moved away from” because “escaped” is truly how I feel about it.

When people asked where I was from when travelling during my years there, I was too embarrassed to say Winnipeg and I certainly never identified myself as a Winnipegger, such was the regard I felt for my townsfolk. Instead I’d reply, “Well, I grew-up in New Brunswick but now I am living in Winnipeg.” I felt like an outsider for 8 years. So I am probably just bitter about that. I have known some really nice Winnipeggers though, I don’t mean to say that there are none. It could be that with my partner we created the entirely wrong life for me there, certainly in a neighbourhood that, looking back, I never should have considered in the North End. I had agreed that we didn’t want a mortgage and we were both excited to get a fixer-upper to do with whatever our whims decided, but that meant that we never had anything in common with most of our neighbours and there were no business around that catered to our demographic. In case you are wondering, the neighbourhood was not full of people who bought their homes for cash to avoid having a mortgage.

I’ll never know what life may have looked like had we chosen somewhere like Osbourne Village, even if we had rented it would have been a completely different life. Where the young and trendy sipped lattes and rented foreign films and enjoyed a few local boutiques. Now I’d live in a Northern Icelandic town before I’d ever try Winnipeg again. Maybe I would have liked living in the professional neighbourhoods where I might have met more friends who shared interests and might have even engaged in meaningful conversations. I definitely don’t mean high society, I just mean an area where most people had some kind of employment. The North End of Winnipeg had a 90% high school drop-out rate at the time I was teaching if that gives you any indication as to the type of neighbourhoods I am talking about. I actually met some possibly-kindred-spirits at the very end of my time in Winnipeg but it was too late. Staying in Winnipeg just wasn’t my destiny, I wasn’t meant to want to stay. Apparently I was meant to want to run far, far away. And then keep running. Which means travel.

Unfortunately, because I did not live amongst peers I mostly knew Winnipeggers as retail customers from my work and as such they are well-known as possibly being the cheapest in Canada, so it was not a pretty-picture that was being painted from that perspective. Here again I remember listening to teachers talk of their weekend shopping trips to Grand Forks to save money on groceries and basic goods by taking their money away from Winnipeg’s local economy and spending the difference on gas, hotels, and restaurants in the US.

The door most-often slamming in my face when I carried stock in to St.Vital Shopping Centre is a memory that will stay with me. (My partner and I started a retail business with several locations.) Both hands full, someone would pass me to go through the door first and not bother to hold it for a second. Slam. I’d have to put down half of my bags, open the door, hold it with my foot, and go through. Repeat for the 2nd set of doors. (Cold climates have 2 sets with a space between.) Nearly every time. I generally brought stock there twice a week so I am talking about a lot of times. When someone did hold the door for me I’d always ask in surprise where they were from, inevitably they were in town shopping from Mordon or Steinbeck or some other nearby community. (Or they were an immigrant or were over 60, I guess that generation learned manners and consideration.) I was happy when they installed the automatic handicap buttons because I could never count on the politeness of strangers to help in that middle-class Southern Neighbourhood of the city. The rare time someone lets a door slam in my face in other places I always think to myself that they must be from Winnipeg. An unfair thought, absolutely. But, completely learned. I wonder if they hold doors for women?

Students losing marks for late assignments became against the rules (also true in Ontario), so there was actually no repercussion for turning things in late. This does not serve the student well who thinks irrationally that they will complete all the assignments “later” without any penalty. They eventually get impossibly behind and just end-up failing due to not doing any work at any time. The bureaucrats who create most of such ridiculous notions are mostly former teachers who have worked their way up into the offices. Often these are not the teachers who are passionate about teaching, these are the ones who were passionate about their careers and were happy to leave the classroom.

The computer would call in the morning to offer me a workday in one of the 99 schools then part of the Winnipeg School District. (I think it’s called Winnipeg District One now. Even then there were three others school districts within the city.) I was very fortunate that my business took-off so that I didn’t need to substitute teach for very long. I may have enjoyed a “real” teaching job, but perhaps I’ll never know. I loved teaching in Japan though.

My qualification as a teacher is as a High School Business Studies teacher, although the same skills apply and we can teach many other subjects. I preferred teaching English and ESL and even had the occasional fun day with music. I remember giggling as I conducted band, so out-of-practice with reading music and having never conducted. I don’t think the kids noticed the difference, well, apart from my giggles anyway. I surprised myself by how much instruction I was able to throw-in from my days sitting through band rehearsals. During my own high school days I played the trumpet in concert band and the saxophone in jazz band although mostly I was a singer. The music and drama departments throughout high school gave some meaning to my life. (I have written more about this era of my life in other postings.)

Back in Manchester, inside the information office I am disappointed to find that the walking tours I read about are only on weekends and bank holidays. I feel like Lonely Planet could have added that detail, them not being available for 5 days every week. Staying here Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday I am out of luck. I don’t blame them for not going on weekdays, if they were viable they would be, it’s a business just like everything else and I wouldn’t expect them to lose money for my visiting convenience.

Picking-out some postcards I learn that Manchester is the home of Coronation Street! So that’s the show I felt like I was sitting amongst yesterday in the pub! I’ve only seen it a few times with Dad and Jenny, but enough for Manchester to seem familiar. Not in specific buildings or anything but in the culture of the people. And pub culture is at it’s very heart, where people come together after work or where pensioners meet-up with their mates to share a laugh. I am surprised by how realistic that program must be if it makes me feel like real-life is a program.

I sip a burnt cappuccino at the John Rylands Library as I type this in. Some patrons like their milky coffees burning-hot in England, and the pressure to provide this causes many baristas to scald the milk. This decreases the sweetness and makes for a bitter, unpleasant drink, albeit as hot as tea for those for whom this is the main concern.

It’s raining very hard now, at 2PM, so I may find myself a comfortable nook somewhere to work on my postings further until it hopefully abates. According to Lonely Planet, this library is, “. . . arguably the most beautiful library in Britain”, so not a bad place to find oneself seeking refuge from in-climate weather. Manchester came in to it’s own during the late C18 and C19 when it was a very important town for having steam-powered cotton mills and was a textile centre. A widow whose husband massed a great cotton fortune built this incredible library in honour of her husband’s memory in 1824.

An American mother and daughter join me sitting in the leather sofa across from mine. Or they could be Canadian, I can’t tell. Many of our accents overlap, so unless they have a specific regional accent such as from Texas or Alabama, or more specific such as from Brooklyn, Boston or New Orleans then I can’t tell. Probably half of Canadians sound the same as half of Americans. I feel sneaky not revealing my North American identity to them. The mother buys a reusable shopping bag to protect her lovely purse in before they head into the not-yet-relenting rain. I take a photo of where I have been writing after they have departed and notice that my camera’s battery is about to die. I can’t just pick-up replacements, it is one of those thin square ones and the only thing to do is to recharge.

I make my way into the main of the library. I had been sitting in the new £16m expansion that includes a gift shop, cafe and probably accessibility features such as elevators I expect. I am in awe when I enter the main reading hall with it’s high Victorian Gothic ceiling. I decide that this is the perfect place to sit and continue my work. I sit at a table in the middle as to be able to take in the great hall, but there are wonderful little private nooks with desks, tables, and even computers alongside this level as well as the level above. Were I a regular here I am sure I’d have my favourite little section, mostly lit by the way the German Bottle glass windows refract the light. This afternoon is dark and overcast but the daylight in this room is still plentiful. I understand there to be a very impressive collection of rare books contained within the stately glass-doored bookshelves throughout. What a legacy Mrs. Rylands has given Manchester.

Mancunians must love their books because this cathedral of books is not the only game in town. The nearby Central Library (1934) is an impressive edifice itself, resembling the Roman Colosseum it is Britain’s largest municipal library. Currently undergoing some refurbishment, I won’t be able to enjoy it this visit. It should re-open later in 2013.

____________________________

20130628-174325.jpg
Teachers with some placards stand in front of the tourist information office.

20130628-174442.jpg
The incredibly handsome John Rylands Library, arguably the most impressive in all of England.

20130628-174551.jpg
I start my visit warming-up with a burnt cappuccino in the new cafe expansion.

20130628-174645.jpg

20130628-174707.jpg
As soon as I entered the original library I was amazed by the attention to detail of every gothic square inch as seen in this corridor.

20130628-174834.jpg
Gorgeous rooms of books kept in glass-doored cabinets.

20130628-174913.jpg
The main stairwell.

20130628-174940.jpg

20130628-175003.jpg
A Cumbrian printing press on display.

20130628-175059.jpg
Looking-up in the main staircase.

20130628-175144.jpg
Wow. The main reading hall. It’s like a cathedral except warm and comfortable, probably warmer because this is not on the ground floor.

20130628-175318.jpg
These cozy study nooks surround the main reading room on two levels.

20130628-175402.jpg
Views from where I make home for a few hours in the middle of the reading room.

20130628-175444.jpg

20130628-175458.jpg
What a treat working here!

20130628-175623.jpg
Manchester’s Central Library nearby is currently closed for renovations. I will have to try-out this impressive structure on a future visit. Manchester is quickly becoming a city that I want to return to.

20130628-175930.jpg

Join me next time when I continue my visit to one of England’s greatest cities, Manchester.

The Archaeological Sight of Norton Priory

20130629-142128.jpg

I choose to visit this site as a daytrip between Manchester and Liverpool. I always try to find somewhere interesting to stop between my more major destinations partly to make best use of my car journey and partly because I prefer to check-in to my accommodation when I arrive to a new city. Unload what I need, put the car away, and set off to explore. There is always a few hour gap between check-out and check-in times and most of my distances on this trip are very short.

On entering the museum I learn that this was a monastery that was decommissioned by Henry VIII in 1536. He did this in a wide sweep, caused lots of destruction all over the empire at that time. The Priory was subsequently purchased by the Brooke Family who lived here for nearly 400 years.

20130629-142822.jpg

20130629-143008.jpg

20130629-143056.jpg

20130629-143142.jpg
In the 1700’s the Brooks family had built a 2 1/2 acre walled garden. This garden would have provided the home with all of its fruits, vegetables, and flowers. It also would have housed a leisure section.

20130629-143409.jpg
Ornamental and practical, this walled garden was reconstructed in recent years based on typical Georgian gardens since the original blueprints were not recovered. The Brooks had moved out of the priory in 1921 and the garden had been let to local gardens and used to raised pheasants. By the 1960s it had started to fall into ruin.

20130629-143624.jpg

20130629-143654.jpg

20130629-143716.jpg
It is far from ruins today, this lovely plot have been lovingly reclaimed and the walls completely restored.

20130629-143812.jpg

20130629-143830.jpg

20130629-143845.jpg

20130629-143859.jpg
The kindly woman knitting in the entrance cottage of the walled garden chats with me openly and warmly. I come to learn that today the gardens employ a head gardener, an assistant, and many local volunteers who come in and dedicate their time to weeding and even staffing the entry.

20130629-144120.jpg
There is a tea house, book stall, and plants for sale in the area that once housed potting sheds and was also where the gardeners were housed. This was a tough job, I am surprised how much so. The next photo explains.

20130629-144256.jpg

20130629-144411.jpg
Try to guess what I am standing in front of.
Don’t look ahead, guess what it is!

20130629-144512.jpg
Here is a hint, between the exterior and interior it had very think stone walls. During the war this was also used as a bunker due to it’s been mostly recessed and covered in earth.

20130629-144615.jpg
This is an ice house. A luxury for the family, it was large enough to supply ice throughout the year. In fact this home never had electricity right until the family left in 1921 so the ice was needed for refrigeration. I read that this was one of the mostly undesirable tasks, hiking to the pond a half mile away, going at it with axes, and carrying back the frozen water during winter’s coldest days. Continually until it was full of ice by the end of winter. Not a long Canadian winter either, the short English winter. It would have had a drain system to remove melt.

20130629-145020.jpg

20130629-145109.jpg
Back at the carpark I notice this sign at a crossing of bicycle paths. A fun chance to explore, I pull my folding cycle out of my trunk and go in search of Amoor Old Town where I hope to have lunch.

20130629-145346.jpg
I cross this lovely canal from high above.

20130629-145421.jpg
At the first main cycle path intersection, there is no signage to give direction.

20130629-145510.jpg
I don’t know where I am anymore, but this looks to be modern suburban housing. I follow a sign that says “village square”.

20130629-145610.jpg
Still following a sigh to “village square”. Hoping to find some charm.

20130629-145653.jpg
This sign lies to me, or I have arrived to a town of mutes.

20130629-145747.jpg
Well, I have found the village square, not what I had in mind. The only option for lunch is a convenience store, so I get a dry packaged sandwich and a can of starbucks. In the square I greet three separate groups of people who pass by. They look but no one replies. Just when I am thinking that I have happened upon a land where people have no tongues a man shouts at his dog and violently jerks him into the air for running into a puddle nearby. I feel sick to my stomach. The nasty man has two really cute basset hounds. I want to shout at the jerk but decide not to, me shouting at him would make no difference, he could even kick his other dog just to show me so. Disgusting.

20130629-150138.jpg
I walk back to my bicycle at the edge of the square and make my way back to the priory. I had made more turns than I had remembered making so I am pleased when I have found my way.

20130629-150351.jpg
Back at the carpark I decide to try the other direction, I don’t want to pull away with this bad taste in my mouth. Perhaps a visit to the lovely-sounding Sandymoor will do the trick. I have already been the other ways, the ones perpendicular are actually of the Norton Priory.

20130629-150540.jpg
The cycle path leads to alongside a roadway until I arrive. Not quite what I was hoping to find. I will continue on to see what there might be around the corner.

20130629-150640.jpg
Sandymoor is probably a lovely modern quiet suburb to live in, but absolutely nothing to see here. Back to the car.

20130629-150728.jpg
They have gone to a lot of expense and trouble to have wonderful, seemingly-unused cycle paths here. (I encounter no one in any direction during my usage.) But they need to go one step further and put-up some more direction signs, without those this is a waste.

20130629-150934.jpg
I return to the Priory Cafe where I do this posting from start to finish sipping a self-serve cappuccino out of a push-button machine. The sunlight and gardens make it a nice place to work, and I have cellular reception to be able to do my blog using my portable internet.

There are loads of things to see and do in nearby Liverpool and Manchester. If you are going between the two cities, this is an interesting diversion. But if you have limited time I would not recommend dedicating time to this over spending more time in the other cities. This is the perfect place to have a day out if you live in Manchester or Liverpool and therefore your travel time is not limited, but unless you have a strong interest in archaeology I would not suggest you put this high on your list.

20130629-151207.jpg

More Walks around the Medieval city of York

There are always two walks scheduled to start at the same time by Yorkwalk. I arrive on site to join the Graveyard,Coffin, and Plague Tour but being the only one who has shown that tour cannot go so instead I join a merry group of about 10 led by our very erudite guide, John. We start off through the lovely Museum Gates, where all of the tours commence. This is a wonderfully personal tour for although John was not born and raised in York, he has lived most of his active adult life here. His main quality is understanding what is interesting for the general public who are not themselves mostly historians but merely curious.

At the ruins of St.Mary’s Abbey (constructed 1270-1294) John shares with us how in the 1940s England requested cities to have performance festivals as part of the renewal of lives after the war. During this time the Edinburgh Fringe started as did many others including York’s Mystery Plays. Dame Judy Dench was one of the first actors to entertain audiences in front of this Abbey ruin, which has been repurposed as a backdrop ever since.

In another area of the gardens John points out the sone work use to contain flower beds. He pulls out a photo from the treasure trove he carries with him and shows us a drawing of the Abbey ruins perhaps over a century ago. As we can see, much of the rocks used in the gardens were pilfered from the ruins. But they don’t do that anymore, now they are more valuable as they are.

20130622-133653.jpg
Look at me with my healthy breakfast! It is, look carefully, my egg is poached and I had them hold the fried bread, baked beans, potatoes, and toast. I may need my cholesterol meds again after this trip with all the included English Breakfasts. At least my clothes still fit. Mostly.

20130622-133850.jpg
I stay just outside the back gate to these lovely Museum Gardens where all the Yorkwalk tours commence. Here you can see our guide, John, walking backwards as he narrates the history of the Roman wall ruin to our right.

20130622-134041.jpg

20130622-134223.jpg
After showing us a drawing of what the Abbey ruins looked just over a century ago, John takes us nearby to see where some of it was pilfered to.

20130622-134458.jpg
You don’t have to look too closely at the flowerbeds to notice that many of the rocks used have been very much altered after being quarried. Ah ha. Pilfered from ruins. Ancient ruins had not been as cherished in the recent past as they are today.

20130622-134748.jpg
There is simply so much to look at everywhere, I had not even noticed this until John pointed it out. I had passed through this park nearly ten times up to this point. Remarkable. And that is why I am so pleased to enjoy these walking tours with a variety of interesting and unique guides. No, I do not work for them. Also, when travelling alone taking walking tours is a great way to meet locals and other travellers. It’s good to have the social interaction.

Along the city walls he tells us how the walls impeded the development of York throughout time, when other cities were becoming major trading places the walls of York hindered the coming and going of goods and inhibited growth. In the 1800s parts of the walls were disassembled to build roadways and to give the city new life. Like taking a tourniquet off a limb and allowing blood to flow.

We stop at the location of one of the main city gates where John shows us a photo of what it used to look like, quite a sizable tunnel-structure has been removed that would have disallowed a street to run along the wall. The photo is not of this gate, it is of another gate where the tunnel has been left in tact and he points out where there is evidence of the removal of this one.

Inside the gate, he points out some architecture that was redone in the 1900s. When the railways connected York in the 1830s, with it came tourists to enjoy England’s most complete Medieval city. They wanted to see the York Minster and the city walls. They expected to see gothic architecture here on the gate, so sometime in the 1900s they removed lovely windows from this space where a guard keeper would have lived and changed it with more harsh gothic defence-looking walls that visitors expected to see. But these arrow slits are pointing inwards, it would have been very unusual for the gate to have defences like these pointing towards it’s own. As for changes at York Minster, a group of homes were removed to have a clearing, opening the view to the Minster from much further. I had noticed myself that I had to go more than half a block away to be able to capture the Minster in my camera’s viewfinder. Before the clearing, I wouldn’t have been able to fully capture the front of the structure.

John went to University in Brighton, in the South of England. I don’t know how he ended-up in York, but I do know that for some time he worked in the accounts department of a bookshop under a Polish woman who was born during the reign of Tsar Nicholas II. The offices of the bookshop overlooked the toilet shop that was later discovered to have some medieval innards and today is a type of small museum. He finished his career at the York Minster Library from 1994 to 2010. He shares a few fun stories from his years there as we stand behind the great York Minster from where we can see the building where he worked on the same grounds. A couple donated their “Wicked Bible”, a book that was printed in the 1600s and nearly immediately destroyed intentionally by fire due to it’s heresy. A printers error that could not be overlooked, the missing of one short word made so much difference. “Thou shalt commit adultery.” Oops. Obviously the missing word was “not”.

Throughout the tour I also enjoy sharing comments with an interesting woman from the West Coast. She is visiting York for her 50th University Class Reunion. She joined the tour a few minutes in having stumbled into us by the Abbey Ruins where John was showing us photos from the year he joined the Mystery Plays. Photos of the stage work set-up in front of the ruins. John played a demon.

I’m going to call her Judith, but I didn’t catch her name. Judith studied at what was the 3rd year of this young university. She has not visited York since her school days so she was in that blur of struggling to remember days so long past they nearly seem like they were from someone else’s life. We walk through an interesting compound where she actually had classes. I think she’s a bit stunned by it all, surprised by the unfamiliarity. I share with her that it took me some days to better remember my life in Edinburgh. It took some time and effort for memories to sift through the deep sand residue that has since accumulated. Such a different time, such a different life. I hope she is able to visit for long enough for the memories to flood back, she has much more sand to sift than I had. Although I have a lot of sand from having had a lot of variety in my experiences over the past 16 years. If I had lived in one city and had one main career I would have had much less to sort through myself. I have had very distinct shorter chapters whereas many people have one or two longer chapters.

I always think of Universities as being old, so I am quite surprised by the age of this one. But my first university was oddly old for being in Canada. Originally named Kings College, the University of New Brunswick is tied with Georgia State as being the oldest university in North America, both founded in 1789. Those were the very early days of formal education on that continent. (It was still Kings College during the era of the book series, “Anne of Green Gables” and was the setting for her studies.)

We end the tour with some overlap of my other tours and again visit the lovely owls. I really don’t mind having overlap, I only capture half or less of what is presented to me anyway. With ADHD I have a natural filter that automatically only captures the most interesting bits while my mind wanders during the presentation of minute details that might fascinate me were I a historian.

20130622-135219.jpg
Much of the walls we walk on today were recreated in Victorian times. This bit is Roman.

20130622-135320.jpg

20130622-135348.jpg

20130622-135404.jpg
Notice the tiny little window. We are told that this is located in a toilet. Well, not IN the toilet, but British also call the room in which a toilet is located the toilet.

20130622-135546.jpg

20130622-135620.jpg
John asks us if we can guess what has happened here. Iron fencing removed for the war effort.

20130622-135831.jpg
“Judith” was excited when we rounded the corner to this building. Most of York University is located outside the city walls in newish buildings but she happened to have attended some classes here when she was a student during the University’s early days.

20130622-140049.jpg

20130622-140102.jpg
During the poring rain last night whilst I was enjoying Verdi in the comfort of York Mister a university group was doing an outdoor play about Anne Boleyn. They have tarps for over the audience but the actors were soaked. We meet the director who lets us lift the incredibly heavy costumes to feel their weight.

20130622-140353.jpg
These arrow slits of the construction reconstructed to look “more Gothic” are facing into the walled city rather than towards intruders.

20130622-140557.jpg
With my hair it’s longest since high school, my facial hair (since November 2012), and full-time travelling, I think I may have become a hippy.

20130622-140802.jpg
I explained the purpose of this little plaque in my previous posting about York.

20130622-140851.jpg
A little ornamental devil in the middle of the colourful medieval streets of York’s centre.
.
After walking past lots of crowded lunch spots, I settle on having lunch at the library. I have chosen this because of it’s quiet setting and being located directly beside where my next tour will commence in just over an hour. Lunch is simple and good and has the benefit of being cheaper than in the tourist restaurants. Sadly the fluorescent tube lights are too bright for me and I have forgotten those glasses, but I leave soon enough not to have gotten a headache.

__________________________________

In the afternoon I join a tour called, “Guildhalls & Hidden Places” which has a largely English crowd in attendance. When I say “largely”, I mean 5 Brits and me. This is a well travelled group, three of them have been to Canada and are happy to share about their travels. In our conversations about England I have now added Chester to my list of places to visit, and it may even happen on this trip after Liverpool.

The other solo walker is a local nun, she lives a 2-minute walk away from the York Minster in a Maisonette. She too has visited Toronto, she stayed for a month there with some sisters in Willowdale. She enjoyed her stay.

We walk past a pub that once was the city dwelling of country folks who were the parents of General Wolfe. The Wolfe who defeated the French and took Canada for the British Empire.

Our first stop is to visit St.Cuthberts, a church that has been made redundant three times. The first time was during the reformation when nearly half of all Yorks churches were made redundant. The last time was more recently, the priest in charge decided he didn’t like the groups that were making use of the church and made them find another home. Now, empty and unused, it has less chances of survival from things like moisture damage and vandalism. It’s much better for a building like this to have people coming and going.

Our guide, Warwick, removes some carpet floor tiles, then wood, then support beams, to unveil a secret entrance to under the floor. Two of us climb down the fixed ladder to see the marked grave below. There are many, many unmarked burials below us and outside surrounding the church.

PHOTOS

20130622-191125.jpg
The Black Swan pub in York was once the city home of the parents of General Wolfe. (I was told that they spent most of their time in their country home.)

20130622-191448.jpg
St. Cuthburts has had been a church long in disuse and has been made redundant again recently because the person in charge did not like it’s uses. But any use is better than no use when it comes to preserving an old structure. It was being used by Christian groups, just not ones the person in control approved of apparently.

20130622-191704.jpg
Trying to save this structure, self-sufficient offices were built in the middle so the building would be used without touching it’s actual structure. They have been made empty recently though.

20130622-191827.jpg
Notice the floor tiles in front of the jacobean pulpit. They hide an entrance to underneath this modern sub floor.

20130622-192012.jpg
The entry opened, two of us venture down for a peak. General public cannot enter this locked church, and fewer people still have access to this area.

20130622-192156.jpg
Some views under the sub-floor.

20130622-192239.jpg

20130622-192259.jpg

20130622-192334.jpg

20130622-192348.jpg
It’s not a beautiful church inside.

20130622-192451.jpg
Showing the patchwork of brickworks outside St.Cuthberts.

We visit part of the York City walls where we come to understand that most of what we see today are Victorian recreations of the walls. In this location we can see some of the original Roman walls, from the 200s. They seem very short but this is because the ground level has risen by a few meters.

Lastly we visit a Guild Hall that was once part of a priest’s commune. It was another case of the priests misbehaving and then being housed together under a watchful eye. Even then, it was known for the occasional priest to sneak in male tradesmen to do work who were in fact women in disguise. Naughty priests.

Today this is a modern guildhall, serving as the meeting place for several different guilds and being rented out for functions.

When I return to the hotel I am introduced to my new room. I had originally only booked to stay 3 nights. To increase my stay to 6 nights I need to move twice taking what accommodation they have available. The feeling at the Coach House Hotel is fantastic, very homey and welcoming so I didn’t want to move anywhere else. This is a wonderful home away from home and in a great location too.

20130622-192637.jpg
A section of York’s city walls.

20130622-192712.jpg
The walls high above are the Victorian reconstructions. The darkest part are the most modern ones, they are retaining walls holding the earth away from the unburied Roman walls, which our guide has trekked down into.

20130622-192856.jpg

20130622-193008.jpg
There are numerous Guildhalls throughout York.
.
.

20130622-193319.jpg

“England’s Other City”, a Silly Look at a City that has a Silly Slogan.

href=”https://personaltravelstories.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/20130623-142022.jpg”&gt;20130623-142022.jpg

If I tell you that this city’s motto at my time of writing is, “England’s Other City” I am certain that you would never guess the city that I am referring to, so disparate must be their self-image to actual. Good for them, it’s been proved that those who appraise themselves more favourably than actual do better than those tho appraise themselves harshly. A good self-image is important although one should also have at least a teensy bit of reality to avoid wearing one of those funny coats where the arms are tied around back. But just try to think of a few places it could possibly be before scrolling down to see. Perhaps even click on the comment button to tell everyone what your guess was. If you’re from there or have read it before than you may know, but that’s not the same as a motto actually suiting a place.

______________________________________
I am experimenting with my writing, this first bit is some added fiction and the main story starts after the next line.
______________________________________

Imagine you are in your mid-thirties. You’ve finally landed the job you’ve always wanted, the career you’ve been working towards since you entered university seventeen years ago. You love your city, you enjoy the life you’ve set-up for yourself, and financially you don’t have a care in the world. You have a lovely set of friends that you’ve built-up over the years, an eclectic mix of differing personalities that suit your various moods. I guess you’re a bit of a moody a-hole that you need to do that, but never-mind. The point is that life is good and you feel satisfied. You’re dreams have come true.

You are an art curator and have worked your way up to one the most prestigious art galleries in New York City, an accomplishment that you like to flaunt at every turn. You went back to your hometown high school reunion for the sole purpose of making others feel badly about themselves. “It must be lovely to serve the public at the hospital cafeteria, your family must be dead-proud that you climbed such dizzying heights from where you started at McDonalds and in only twenty years!” “You must feel good about your contributions to the world, I can only imagine how doing the book-keeping for ABC Pesticides must be an exciting and rewarding position for you. I’m sure one has to experience working in a basement office to really appreciate it.” You don’t try to hide your pretensions either, you are the leader-of-the-pack in your pretentious circles.

You have no appreciation for the fact that people are not dealt the same hand. True, you did work hard, but you were also given a free pass when your family easily afforded to send you to the University of your choice. Growing-up, your Uncle Malcolm would take you to fabulous places and show you works of art that most kids will never see during their lifetime, let alone with your uncle’s explanation of why he loves certain pieces so much. (You can remember clearly that there was a modern abstract piece he loved that he claimed was a uterus. Actually, now that you think about it, he could find the uterus in a lot of abstract pieces, almost like it was a fixation of his. You couldn’t quite see it yourself.)

By the time you exited high school you had already visited some of the worlds greatest art galleries in London, Paris, Amsterdam, Berlin. You had private art-tuition on weekends and although you had no talent (You were terrible! Remember!) it aided in your appreciation and somehow it didn’t injure your ego one tiny bit, so strong was your sense of being better than others. You were Daddy’s little Princess and Mamma’s little Cabbage. (She wasn’t calling you retarded. It’s a term of endearment in French.) You won a scholarship by being the only applicant who fell within it’s parameters. (Awarded to a white female candidate who has travelled extensively by age fifteen to at least 5 of the worlds 10 greatest cities with their uncle and who might be considered differently-abled when it comes to the actual creation of art. The scholarship coincidentally coming from your Father’s company and creating a tax write-off for him. Interesting.)

No, apart from these tiny benefits you enjoyed, you are completely self-made and there’s no excuse why Sharon who group-up one of 5 children to a single mother who cleaned homes for a living should not have created a life just as fulfilling and successful as yours. The fact that she was excited to get her first job at age fifteen because it meant that her family could keep their 2-bedroom apartment despite the rate increase holds no water with you. That her family immediately became dependant on her income and she then never had a chance to advance herself career-wise because of her desperate situation will never occur to you as anything but an excuse for her to be lazy. Lazy in a working-two-jobs-seventy-exhausting-hours-per-week sort of way.

Or what about John who became a pet-groomer, loves his wife and two kids, and he would not have his life any other way. You look down on him too because you don’t understand that his success exceeds yours. He’s happier than you are, and he gives back to his community as a volunteer fire fighter. He does that with his Dad, it is something they can share together in the small town you also grew-up in. But because that town was not your destiny you judge others when it is theirs, as if liking one place is better than liking another. Well it’s not, it’s just personal preference. Imagine if we all had the same preference, what would the world look like then? Hmmm? You’re being pretty quiet now, aren’t you.

Well, you are just delightful. How have we not met and become fast friends.

One day you wake-up and you can’t see a thing. Not a spec of light. The darkness that is your view of others who differ from you is now all that you can see. Sad.

Can’t see the pretty pictures now, can you. I’m sure my readers feel so very sorry for you. But lets have some fun with it anyway. We deserve to have some fun, don’t we. Your social worker is one of those people who yells when talking to blind people. You thought this was funny before you went blind yourself, how people with all their senses seem to confuse which-ones-do-what when dealing with the differently-abled. Now that you are blind yourself you notice that your hearing is actually heightened, so dependent you are on it for information about your environment. Its startling when someone yells at you from close proximity, especially when you didn’t see they were there. In fact, you never see they are there. I sometimes find noisy situations disorienting myself and I have the aid of having full visual guidance. I can only imagine that a noisy place where you cannot differentiate specific queues of comings and goings and activities by their sounds must be very stressful.

You have a type A personality and your social worker has decided that it would be best for you to just jump in to your new life by going to a special boot-camp, an island full of people just like you where you should be able to master your change of ability within a matter of months. Three months actually. But once you go, there’s no leaving early under any circumstance apart from being air lifted due to having a medical emergency.

After packing a nearly-random assortment of clothing (Because you can’t see them. Were you intending to wear the top-half of your halloween crocodile costume with those jeans today? And you have some food stuck to your lips. Oh sorry, I must have forgotten to take my glue stick out of your cosmetic case. Easy mistake, I do tend to forget things.) you reluctantly leave your perfect life. You’d take-up massage, an ideal profession for the sight-impaired because they tend to develop a gifted sense of touch, if you didn’t dislike people so much. You’re not sure what you are going to do yet, but you know you can’t just sit at home and listen to tv all day. You need to learn how to walk with a cane, you need braille to read, you need strategies and you need to train your brain to experience the world differently than you have for the past 35 years. You oscillate between feeling depressed and anxious and then one of your self-help books kicks-in and you feel slightly invigorated by the challenge.

At the conclusion of a considerable world journey you arrive to the island and something seems wrong. You can’t see what it is because you still can’t see. Perhaps you didn’t read the fine print of the forms your social worker had you sign. Oh dear. Your social worker seems to have made a bit of a mix-up. He’s sent you to a boot camp for people who suddenly lost their hearing. It was all the same to him I guess. Oops.

The first days you spend your time stumbling around getting slapped in the face a lot. Sighted people practicing their new language. No one can hear you, even the staff are deaf. Must be hard not being heard. Kind of like how you refused to see the real lives of those you looked down on. Bit judgemental, weren’t you. Hmmm.

Apart from feeling alienated you feel painfully bored, unlike anything you have ever experienced. (Although perhaps you’ve come close while reading this blog today. I’m experimenting a bit.) You’ve alienated yourself before, so that’s not entirely new, but never have you been unable to read, unable to watch a movie, but especially unable to sit and admire the new artwork that you just acquired for your gallery at auction. Attaining things with other’s money actually turned out to be your greatest passion, you felt like it was yours. The powerful feeling of wielding an auction number with a two million dollar budget for the afternoon, you like that.

_______________________________________________

I am not saying that Norwich is boring like this island must have been for our dear friend who so sadly lost her sight, it isn’t quite. That it was England’s second largest city in the eleventh century did surprisingly little to alter my experience of it only ten centuries later. But I suppose a lot can change in a thousand years when you really think about it. In my five days of wandering it’s lovely streets (it really is pretty) somehow nothing happened. I didn’t find anything particularly interesting to do, I was not able to meet anyone, I found it difficult to find meals away from very noisy chain restaurants, and I found no stories to tell. I’m sure it has lots of these wonderful things and much more, I just didn’t find any of them myself. It is a handsome place though, with some great buildings and I loved the narrow streets of the old town. If you are out for sightseeing, this is a very pretty town. And perhaps there are events that go on there from time-to-time that would have considerably altered my experience.

There were some interesting bits from history, just nothing during my visit. It was the only English city to ever be “excommunicated” in the twelve hundreds, so that’s something. In the fourteenth city they completed city walls but then someone had the brilliant notion to make it illegal to build outside them which caused complete stagnation and meant the end of the city’s growth. Seems obvious enough today that a city that cannot grow will not be able to keep-up with rivals but then again our life expectancies today are longer than thirty-years so perhaps we do have more foreskin. I mean foresight. Perhaps both, I’m not a doctor or a geneticist or anything.

Speaking of foreskin, since you brought it up, Norwich had a very disgraceful event in it’s history when in 1190 the Jewish population was executed apart from a few who found a safe-place in the castle. I can only suppose this had some tie-in to an event in 1144 when a boy was found stabbed and the Jews of Norwich were accused of his murder. The executions took place an entire generation later, but there is no other explanation presented that I could find so I am guessing that the event triggered a feud. I have no evidence or knowledge of such, I am just drawing a possibly ludicrous conclusion. I am not a historian.

Norwich’s famous department store, Jerrolds, is only located in Norwich so one could probably say with some conviction that it’s not actually famous. (Yes, I do know that locals might argue that it was something larger a century ago and therefore famous but I am referring to those of us who are alive today. In 2013 it is probably known only to people of Norfolk.) The name does remind one of Harrods though, so that’s something.

Perhaps the most interesting fact I pulled from Norwich’s long and fascinating history was that in 1976 it installed speed bumps on one of it’s streets to encourage drivers to keep to the 30 mph speed limit, making it England’s third street ever to do so.

Incredible.

They really should promote that more to draw-in more tourists. Makes one pause and wonder where the first street was, doesn’t it. Can you hardly imagine, now that would really be something. But being number three is not too shabby either and the fact that I stumbled upon that amazing fact shows some civic pride for sure, that someone took the effort to make sure the world didn’t forget. And the world surely won’t forget, or at least several readers won’t – it now being encapsulated in my very informative book as it is.

Norwich seems to have sometime recently changed it’s motto from “Norwich – a fine city” which I would say was arguably true, to the very head-shaking, “Norwich, England’s other city.” This latter incarnation, so ridiculous in it’s implication that perhaps England has two cities, gives me the impression that they are perhaps reaching just a little. Like a thousand years. If you don’t like how you compare to other cities today than you shouldn’t have had your silly “no building outside the walls” rule for hundreds of years. Just sayin’. It was number two before it fell gracefully over the centuries to become what it is today. It does have a lot of medieval churches though, which are nice to look-at. Unless you’ve been touring around England continuously for some weeks and find that the churches are starting to blur your vision.

I can only imagine that this new motto was conjured by an illiterate cave-dweller who had only ventured into public the one time during-which he conveyed this, his greatest idea to a motto-starved public who embraced it with some controversy. He could hardly be blamed, he had only seen cave drawings from the time when that phrase would have been true, how could he have known how drastically the world had changed. According to Wikipedia, the city itself, standing at around 140,000 inhabitants, Norwich ranks number 139. Which is also quite far from being second. Actually in a different listing I found, they stood at number 156 but let’s give them the benefit of the doubt since this seems a touchy issue.

Perhaps those in favour of the new city slogan had never watched Bob Newhart. “This is my brother Darryl, and this is my other brother Darryl,” is a more accurate grammar usage by a not-overly erudite character on that programme. Note that the total number of brother’s named Darryl that he had was two.

I am a cat lady. I have thirteen cats. This is my cat Margaret. This is my other cat, Bob.

Something doesn’t add up. What happened to the other eleven cats. I don’t trust myself now. Am I even a real cat lady? I don’t think so. See what I mean – it’s like they’re trying to hide something. “England’s Other City,” as a motto applied to a city such as this is an embarrassment that just highlights that really it isn’t. I hope they change it back. Or why not correct it, “Norwich, One of England’s other cities”. They don’t need to necessarily mention that it’s one of England’s more insignificant other cities.

Here are some other possibilities, and perhaps readers might add to my list using the comments button below:
“Norwich, we have several hundred more people than Horsham does.”
“Norwich, we might be friendly but we don’t really talk to strangers so it may be hard for you to tell. Sorry about that.”
“Norwich, chain-restaurants are welcome here.”
“Norwich, proud of our heritage. Well, apart from some of the latter middle-ages. But no one is perfect. Shut-up.”
“Norwich, we may be insignificant today but you should have seen us a thousand years ago.”

Without further ado, here are some photos from my time in Norwich.

<a href="https://personaltravelstories.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/20130807-112346.jpg"&gt;20130807-112346.jpg
The very handsome train station.

20130807-112412.jpg
I found Norwich to be very pretty.

20130807-112500.jpg

20130807-112519.jpg
A local was displeased when I took this photo, but I’ve never seen this kind of very narrow gents street urinal before and I though it was interesting. Actually, I was starved for interesting at the time. There was no equivalent for the ladies, it appears that they are addressing the problem of gentlemen peeing in public. The guy who yelled a sarcastic remark to me was working at the bar nearly opposite with a black sign, something to do with mojo I think. I just though of another slogan, “Norwich, pretty but also pretty dull.”

20130807-112731.jpg


Here are some comparisons for the non-British person to be able to fully comprehend Norwich’s grammatically-flawed and false assertion.

These are other cities that also rank number 139 in their countries:

“Cowansville, Canada’s other city”

“Fort Lauderdale, America’s other city.” (Oh, I’ve heard of that one!)

“Matsusaka, Japan’s other city.” (Not the more familiar Matsuyama, which is in the top 40.)

“Cottbus, Germany’s other city.” (Actually, this is ranked number 80 in Germany, I could not find an inclusive list that would include towns below 100,000 which seems to be the defining number of what makes a city in Germany. I suppose the need for such comparisons has no real purpose. Honestly, I didn’t look very hard. Just a couple of minutes at the Second Cup as I was writing and now I throw my arms in the air in defeat and move-on, causing fellow patrons to edge away from me a tad as it looks odd to make such a dramatic gesture to an iPad. I’m about to leave anyway so it doesn’t matter. Anyway, please don’t write me with the answer, I don’t actually care, Cottbus sounds obscure enough to make the point. Feel free to share other cities that rank 139 in their countries by population in the comments below. That’s fun. And very informative. Useful.)

“Meudon, France’s other city.”

“Montesilvano, Italy’s other city.”

<a

20130807-112857.jpg
A wonderfully-unique Guild Hall. It was my friend’s birthday back in Toronto so I took a photo for her Facebook.

20130807-113038.jpg
Cute market in the centre.

20130807-113115.jpg
I do love Victorian Shopping Arcades.

20130807-113151.jpg
Other tourists told me not to bother going into Norwich Castle but I did anyway. Don’t bother. Unless you’re a complete history nut or an archaeologist.

20130807-113408.jpg

20130807-113440.jpg

20130807-113454.jpg

20130807-113514.jpg

20130807-113534.jpg

20130807-113551.jpg
The glass structure in the background is the Forum. I’ve read that it draws tourists.

20130807-113654.jpg

20130807-113709.jpg
I suppose that if I had not spent four days having no friendly encounters whatsoever I may have felt completely differently about Norwich. If on holiday, I’d suggest two nights max. That would probably lead to a better impression. It is a beautiful town.

20130807-113938.jpg

20130807-113957.jpg

20130807-114017.jpg

20130807-114045.jpg
Having coffee with my oldest niece. No, we weren’t Skyping, I was that desperate for company!

20130807-114202.jpg

20130807-114246.jpg

20130807-114308.jpg

20130807-114334.jpg

20130807-114403.jpg

The video isn’t fascinating, it’s just a live slideshow from the day that I took most of the photos.

<a

20130807-114704.jpg

Visiting the home of the Famous Bronte Sisters in Haworth, England

The Bronte Parsonage in Haworth
.

20130627-171210.jpg</a.

The Bronte Parsonage in Haworth

I pull away from Leeds in the direction of Haworth on a Sunny Wednesday in late June. The city suburbs continue for quite a while as I make my way upwards with ever increasing views. I am able to pull over to capture one of the views, but most of them escape my capturing with traffic behind me and nowhere to stop. It’s a lovely drive nonetheless and a beautiful day to enjoy it.

I arrive to the Bronte Parsonage before noon and enjoy a wander about the home where the famous Bronte sisters wrote several of their greatest novels. The Bronte sisters had a vague notion that they would receive less credit as authoresses so Anne, Emily, and Charlotte all published under male pseudonyms.

The Bronte family had moved to Haworth in 1820 when their Dad, Patrick Bronte, took the position of perpetual curate of the Haworth Church. Hardship soon followed with the death of Mrs.Bronte and of his two eldest daughters all within the first 4 years. Thereafter the Reverend decided to keep his remaining three daughters and one son close-at-hand. They were home schooled in a very creative environment.

From all accounts the Bronte home sounds to have been a warm, safe, nurturing home. Despite growing-up without a Mother, the Brontes seemed to live lovingly. Servants were considered an extension of family. The girls would sit in the warm kitchen and listen to stories from their maid, an older woman who started with the Bronte family when she was 52 but who in fact outlived most of them.

As part of their creative pursuits, the Bronte children enjoyed writing little books. The first ones were perhaps made for Branwell’s little toy soldiers and were penned so tiny as to be suitable for the tiny fictitious readers. All had a penchant for writing apart from Branwell who became a painter.

There was a school set-up for clergy’s daughters where the Bronte sisters were able to continue their eduction beyond home schooling. They also worked as governesses before finding literary acclaim.

The three ladies went on to become three of the most important literary figures in history. 1847 saw the publication of Jane Eyre, Wuthering Heights, and Agnes Grey. The sisters would spend late lights writing and reading their works to each other with discussions in the dining room as they honed their craft. Their brother died the following year from tuberculosis and soon after Emily was taken by the same disease. When Anne also contracted TB, Charlotte took her to Scarborough with hopes that the seaside cures would help her condition. Sadly, they did not and Anne was soon buried in Scarborough in 1849. (You can see some views of Scarborough in one of my postings from the day I visited Whitby and Scarborough. Just click on the destination to find it.)

Charlotte married despite having misgivings. She and her husband lived with her Dad at the parsonage I visit today. Sadly, in 1855 Charlotte was also taken early during her early months of pregnancy so that poor Reverend Bronte outlived all of his six children.

20130627-171806.jpg
Incredible views leaving Leeds in the direction of Haworth.

20130627-171847.jpg

20130627-171914.jpg
Most visitors will arrive to Haworth at this train station.

20130627-172057.jpg

20130627-172108.jpg
Standing in front of the Bronte home. The addition on the right was added by the next curate of Haworth who had his own private income.

20130627-172218.jpg
The garden is heaped with graves. They did not understand the dangers of grave seepage and this was definitely an issue for the water supply here where the graveyard was filled to overflowing.

20130627-172334.jpg

20130627-172350.jpg
Fun times in the graveyard between the church and the Bronte’s home.

20130627-172440.jpg

20130627-172545.jpg

20130627-172609.jpg
A view of the school from the other side.

20130627-172648.jpg
The church where Patrick Bronte was curate was replaced a few years after his death with this one.

20130627-172734.jpg

20130627-172747.jpg

20130627-172807.jpg
The village is right on their doorstep just through this alley.

20130627-172900.jpg
This view from Haworth Church gate of the Bronte Parsonage.

20130627-172947.jpg
The main street of the very picturesque village of Haworth.

20130627-173034.jpg
Some views around Haworth.

20130627-173105.jpg

20130627-173126.jpg

20130627-173141.jpg

20130627-173157.jpg

20130627-173211.jpg

20130627-173257.jpg

20130627-173313.jpg
During the time of the Brontes, Haworth’s main industry was looming. A large cottage industry where many people worked on looms in their homes.

20130627-173444.jpg

20130627-173514.jpg

20130627-173536.jpg
I take my lunch at the Cookhouse where I sit on the patio and soak-up the lovely ambience of Haworth.

20130627-173627.jpg
Sadly I have saved no room for dessert as the “cheesy bake”came with a good portion of garlic toast and salad. The service was friendly and swift. My server has relatives in Canada and I think she is probably a future-traveller herself.

20130627-173906.jpg

20130627-173925.jpg
These lovely meadows are actually directly behind the Bronte Parsonage and visitors can walk along the periphery.

20130627-174015.jpg

20130627-174029.jpg

20130627-174048.jpg

20130627-174102.jpg

20130627-174122.jpg

20130627-174141.jpg
I leave Haworth going out the opposite of where I entered as I came from Leeds but I’m going to Manchester. I pulled-over at the edge of the village to take-in some more glorious views.

20130627-174310.jpg

20130627-174324.jpg

20130627-174339.jpg

20130627-174355.jpg

20130627-174416.jpg
I stop again only a few minutes out of town to take in more of the amazing views.

20130627-174505.jpg

20130627-174520.jpg
Some of the roads were narrow for my North American standards, but if you are driving between Manchester and Leeds this route is longer but just incredible. Even if you don’t have time to visit Haworth, the drive alone is an absolute treat.

20130627-174652.jpg

20130627-174712.jpg

20130627-174730.jpg

20130627-174741.jpg
I feel like I am driving through time stood still, so beautiful are the country pastures.

20130627-174831.jpg
If I had to guess, I’d say that Laneshawbridge has a population of about 7. I think there were 2 homes, give-or-take.

20130627-175004.jpg

20130627-175015.jpg
The image below is a video. If you click on it you should be able to view a 360 degree view from where I was standing.

20130627-181009.jpg

20130627-181029.jpg

20130627-181044.jpg

20130627-181054.jpg

20130627-181114.jpg

20130627-181134.jpg
Arriving into the Northern Quarter in Manchester where I will be staying 3 nights above a pub.

Click here for a link to a video slideshow of my Day including the lovely countryside and Pennine moorlands between Leeds and Manchester via Haworth.

I finish my day in Manchester where I will make my home above a pub for the next few days. My first pub stay, it should be interesting.

20130627-213211.jpg